Being an English teacher (in my particular case salary woman might be a more apt description) In Japan is, at times, quite trying. That’s why I, like many Japanese people, was wholeheartedly looking forward to
Golden Week; that magically time of the year when you get at least three (and in my case nine) solid days of
rest, relaxation and revelry. In the air of being traditional I put
Nikko of the top of my Golden Week to-do list.
Firstly, a tip:
if you can drive there, do. The scenery the entire way from Takasaki to
Nikko was absolutely breathtaking: rolling green valleys, lush peaks, looming mountains stretching off into the horizon. Truly a stunning sight! I found my directions via
Google Maps and if you just ignore the Japanese (or read it, if you can) and follow the road numbers and bearings you should have no trouble. This is just a teaser of some of the sights you’ll be treated to if you do:



If you do decide to visit by car then get there early to avoid a long wait for a car park (500 YEN seems the standard all day rate). We parked on the main street, just below
Rinnouji temple (see Parking mark on the map) and were able to see everything easily. If you chose instead the train or bus option then your journey begins at the bottom of a long hill, pitted with souvenir shops and restaurants, which lead up to the shrine complex.
Second tip:
go when it’s busy. I know many travel guides would suggest quite the opposite but at peaks times everything is open, street stalls pop up all over the place and the circus-like atmosphere, which adds so much to
Nikko’s general appeal in my opinion, is guaranteed to put you in good spirits.
Now, starting off from the station is the uphill path leading pasts a plethora of souvenir shops. In my opinion the souvenirs available at
Nikko were of a fairly standard variety and, as you would expect, overpriced. However there are some nice sweet shops (selling cookies, cakes etc.) that I would highly recommend for your peeps back home (or simply your own burgeoning waistline). The first is a shop, just off the main road (it’s easy to find from the station you just walk down the road closest to the station, at the back of the main road, for a block uphill and then it’s on the corner) selling milk-based sweets. I bought a box of various cookies and cakes and they were delicious. They also sell fresh and yummy ice cream ♥. My second recommendation specializes in what they call
“Cheese Egg”. Don’t be turned off, it is in reality a cream cheese cake that is utterly divine and probably one of the best sweets I’ve ever had in Japan (marked “CE” on the map). Those these are my top places to visit I would still recommend delving into all the shops on your way to the temple as many of them offer that much-revered marvel:
the free sample! If you’re hungry for something a little more substantially then, honestly, I’d stick to the convenience stores (marked on the map). The restaurants here are overpriced and certainly nothing to write home about. A
Combini Bento is more likely to satisfy both your appetite and your wallet.
When you finally reach the temples, if you’re anything like me, you’ll probably be struck by the gorgeous fertile scenery more than anything. Nonetheless
Toshogu is quite a sight to behold; the attention to detail ensures that every single element of the place is elaborately decorated. I would recommend investing in the 1050YEN combination ticket. The famed sleeping cat is worth seeing simply due to the fact that it is not at all lifelike, fascinatedly non-descript and absolutely impossible to understand what it is about it that makes it so apparently intriguing (and the long line of tourists waiting to photograph this baffling phenomenon are testament to the fact that it is, apparently, intriguing). Also make sure you make a wish at the sacred tree near the tomb because… well, why the hell not?!
The rest of the temple area is a great people-viewing spot, though I wouldn’t recommend forking out any addition cash. Simple wander around and soak up the carnival like atmosphere.
Here are some of the sights that await you, along with a map of the area:




If you did decide to drive then do not miss out of the long, winding, slightly frightening, utterly amazing road that leads up to Lake Chuzenji. It is a completely mind-blowing sight.


Nikko is a great place to visit and I would definitely recommend it to anyone and everyone.